by Janet Carabelli
Savoring regional flavors is one of the joys of travel. In south and central Italy, we look forward to eating authentic pastas and sauces. In the north, we sample traditional preparations of polenta, risotto and game at every opportunity. Eating a Whopper or bucket of KFC would be a travesty in a land of such gastronomic wonders!
So why would we want to drink a cabernet/merlot blend, or some wine that has been so over-oaked that no one could tell what grape it is, much less which region (or even country) it’s from -- wines that are the oenological equivalent of a Big Mac?
Thankfully, some of the smaller producers in Italy are more committed to producing wines that tell of their terroir -- their unique parcels of land – than to turning a quick euro by producing an “international style” wine.
Brothers Mauro and Fabio Fracchia, pictured above, are traditionalists whose wines are unmistakably Barberas Del Monferrato. But not the rustic wines that must be accompanied by fatty meats to make them palatable; their elegant wines need no foil for astringency. Surprisingly, as demonstrated by the impromptu vertical that they generously assembled for us, their wines develop nicely over time.
It was a pleasure to meet the Fracchia brothers while at VinItaly in Verona. Their Sulin wines are produced in very limited quantities, and since Barberas are released early, this was a rare treat from their personal cellar. We felt truly privileged that they shared them with us.
In my estimation, the Sulin Ornella Barbera Del Monferrato 2000, 2001, 2003 and 2004 had developed beautifully over time. The 2004 was complex with flavors of concentrated cherries, raspberries and spice. The 2003 shared those characteristics but was slightly higher in acid. The 2001 displayed a refinement and elegance, and lacked only a long finish to make it a stellar vintage. The true superstar was the 2000, with its candied fruit, wonderful balance, cinnamon, cherries, leather and a hint of eucalyptus. We considered all 4 wines to be worthy of over 90 points.
Like the Fracchia brothers, many vintners are dedicated to preserving their heritage, and improving upon it by cleaner winemaking methods. We met many such unsung heroes at VinItaly in Verona last week. As wine lovers, let’s choose to drink these uniquely Italian wines and celebrate their distinctiveness.
So why would we want to drink a cabernet/merlot blend, or some wine that has been so over-oaked that no one could tell what grape it is, much less which region (or even country) it’s from -- wines that are the oenological equivalent of a Big Mac?
Thankfully, some of the smaller producers in Italy are more committed to producing wines that tell of their terroir -- their unique parcels of land – than to turning a quick euro by producing an “international style” wine.
Brothers Mauro and Fabio Fracchia, pictured above, are traditionalists whose wines are unmistakably Barberas Del Monferrato. But not the rustic wines that must be accompanied by fatty meats to make them palatable; their elegant wines need no foil for astringency. Surprisingly, as demonstrated by the impromptu vertical that they generously assembled for us, their wines develop nicely over time.
It was a pleasure to meet the Fracchia brothers while at VinItaly in Verona. Their Sulin wines are produced in very limited quantities, and since Barberas are released early, this was a rare treat from their personal cellar. We felt truly privileged that they shared them with us.
In my estimation, the Sulin Ornella Barbera Del Monferrato 2000, 2001, 2003 and 2004 had developed beautifully over time. The 2004 was complex with flavors of concentrated cherries, raspberries and spice. The 2003 shared those characteristics but was slightly higher in acid. The 2001 displayed a refinement and elegance, and lacked only a long finish to make it a stellar vintage. The true superstar was the 2000, with its candied fruit, wonderful balance, cinnamon, cherries, leather and a hint of eucalyptus. We considered all 4 wines to be worthy of over 90 points.
Like the Fracchia brothers, many vintners are dedicated to preserving their heritage, and improving upon it by cleaner winemaking methods. We met many such unsung heroes at VinItaly in Verona last week. As wine lovers, let’s choose to drink these uniquely Italian wines and celebrate their distinctiveness.
